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I've been using this palette of colors, or something very close to it, for a few decades now and this post is actually the same thing I give to anyone who takes one of my painting classes.  With 7 to 9 tubes of paint you have an intense, full spectrum of color laid out in an order that gives you a value scale for reference.  It's such a versatile palette that I thought I'd share it.

 Place blues together on the left, then reds then yellows, then white. Leave a gap between blues, reds and yellows for mixing secondary and tertiary colors.  The colors labeled on the palette are specific to M. Graham but I've included other names at the end of this post.

To the right of the white put earth colors, Transparent Yellow Iron Oxide (TYIO) and Transparent Red Iron Oxide (TRIO).  You could add Burnt Umber beside TRIO.   Alternatively, TRIO, or better yet, Transparent Orange Iron Oxide could be used as the only earth color to simplify the palette (The fewer the colors the more mixing, which is fine).

Set up in this order, intense colors can be made by mixing each color into its immediate neighbor up to Cadmium Yellow Light.  Cadmium yellow light then mixes into cool blue on the left (Pthalo blue) to get intense greens. If you need mixed greens in your painting, add them to the line to the left of Phthalo. (Note: If you have a hard time controlling the very strong Phthalo pigments, mix greens with Ultramarine and add in Phthalo to increase the intensity as required)

This order also gives you a built in value scale beginning with darkest dark on the left (Phthalo, Ultramarine and Alizarin) and ending with the lightest light on the right (white). The mid-tone palette helps to gauge your values.  Orange equals middle value.  Squint to compare your mixes in the center of the palette to those pure pigments at the edge of the palette to gauge how light or dark you mixes are. I'll address the earth colors a little later.

Using blues and reds as an example,  we can see the logic of setting up the palette this way.  Ultramarine and Alizarin are next to each other because Ultramarine is a blue with red in it and Alizarin is a red with blue in it.  Mixing the other red and blue, the red that leans toward yellow (Pyrrol) and the blue that leans toward green (Pthalo), makes a very dull violet compared to Ultramarine and Alizarin.  If you want an even more intense violet, switch out Alizarin for Quinacridone Rose or Quinacdridone Magenta.  We need to know what our paint can do so we want to know the purest colors our palette is capable of.  Randomly placing your colors on the palette will lead to random color in your painting. 

The same idea applies to mixing greens and oranges:

If we scrape those dull secondary colors together, adding white to make it easier to see, they make a neutral gray.  They were a mix of all the primary colors and, of course, the primary colors mixed together make a neutral brown or gray.  In short, two primary colors mixed together make an identifiable, fairly intense, color.  The more the third primary is added the less intense and identifiable the color will become.  

As for the earth colors, you can consider them, along with Ultramarine Blue, a secondary palette (a triad: any three colors evenly spaced around the color wheel, like the primaries).  An example of mixing grays using earth colors is below.  Note how similar the resulting grays are to the grays mixed with the intense colors.

Again, white is added to aid in seeing the mix. Think of Transparent Yellow Iron Oxide (TYIO) as a warm yellow, Transparent Red Iron Oxide (TRIO) as a warm red.  If you choose to add Burnt Umber to the palette it functions as a cooler red than TRIO (still warm but more of true red. To cool Burnt Umber more you would add a little Alizarin). Adding TYIO to Ultramarine Blue will make grays that lean blue green-yellow green.  Adding TRIO to Ultramarine will make grays that lean blue violet-red violet.  Adding both TYIO and TRIO to UM make grays that lean blue and orange.  Adding the earth colors to their corresponding pure colors will make lower value, lower intensity, warmer versions of those colors (TYIO with Cad. Yellow Med., Burnt Umber and TRIO with Pyrrol, TRIO and TYIO with Orange).

To save paint, lay out smaller amounts of the entire palette, then when you've decided on a color scheme, lay out more of what you will be using most.  Maybe you'll only need one of the yellows or one of the blues or reds depending on what your dominant color is going to be.  Alternatively you could choose just the three warm or just the three cool primaries plus white.  Or you could paint with just the earth colors and ultramarine and white.   This palette is a great base for experimenting with other colors to make new palettes also.

For a free downloadable PDF of this palette instruction just click here.  It's also on the Classes tab at the bottom of that page.

FYI:  The gray palette in the images is a New Wave Expressionist Confidant palette, made in Pennsylvania, widely available.  I like the neutral gray kind but the natural wood version may be more durable.  My issue with the gray version is that my palette knife gouges the surface too easily.  It's a good and very comfortable palette for anyone who does not want to prepare a traditional palette.  I do prefer the palettes I've prepared myself because the surface is harder to damage but if you don't want to bother, I think these are good palettes, reasonably priced, in different shapes and sizes. 

I'll be adding a post on preparing a traditional wooden palette in a few days so sign up for my email newsletter or, more conveniently maybe, find the Facebook or Instagram icons at bottom left of this page, click, go to my pages and "like" or "follow".   If you remember to  "follow" the Facebook page as well you'll get them in your news feed but you might not if you just "like".  I'll link blog posts to those pages.

Alternative colors:

• Ultramarine (warm blue): Ultramarine Deep, French Ultramarine, Cobalt (a true blue but not a blue-green)
• Pthalo (Phthalocyanine Blue)(cool blue): Prussian Blue (less intense), Viridian, Pthalo green
• Alizarin (cool red): Anthraquinone Red, Quinacridone Rose (my favorite but a slower drier)
• Pyrrol Red (warm red): Cad. Red, Cad. Red Light, Napthol Red/Red Light, Permanent Red Light
• Cadmium Yellow(warm):  Permanent Yellow Med., Hansa Yellow Med., Cad Yellow Med.
• Cadmium Yellow Light (cool):  Permanent Yellow Lt.,  Hansa Yellow Lt.
• Transparent Yellow Iron Oxide: Transparent Earth Yellow, Yellow Ochre (semi-transparent to semi-opaque), Raw Sienna (semi opaque to opaque)
• Transparent Red Iron Oxide: Transparent Earth Red, Burnt Sienna (semi-transparent to semi-opaque)
• Add Burnt Umber as a dark, low intensity red (fast drier! Use only in alla prima or underlayers)
• Try Raw Umber as a cool, very dark yellow (fast drier! also use only in alla prima or in underlayers)